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WANDERLUST -- from Simon and Schuster

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S&S has done a new sampler themed around books that make you travel. You can order it here

There are extracts in it from An Atlas of Impossible Longing; and a note on armchair travels:

My father’s sister lived in a rambling, many-floored, many-roomed joint family house in the older part of Calcutta and when my brother and I were taken on visits to that house, we entered a different era. Corridors, staircases, terraces, different food smells, caged birds, people, conversations, snatches of songs – we passed all this as we walked up many flights of steep, dark stairs to reach my aunt’s set of rooms. On one of the landings there was a picture of the family’s country home, abandoned because it went permanently under water years ago. This image of a pillared mansion half-submerged by a river kept coming back to me over the years and gradually people—the novel’s  characters— floated up out of its surroundings and An Atlas of Impossible Longing began.

When a novel begins I barely know it myself. Some people have appeared in my head, I’m not quite sure from where, and they demand that their stories be told. In the middle of my daily life — my battle with traffic or my dog demanding her walk — these just-appeared people murmur and sigh somewhere in the back of my head. Slowly their voices acquire tone and timbre, the place defines itself, the people come closer; out of the mist their blurred edges become sharper. Then one day, at a magical point, the world of the book becomes a planet spinning away on its own. It’s left my hands, cut loose. It doesn’t need me any more. Now it’s a place for readers to inhabit.
My brother and I read a book called The Golden Goblet by Eloise Jarvis McGraw when we were children. It was about Ranofer, an orphan boy in ancient Egypt. He is a goldsmith’s apprentice who discovers that his evil half-brother, who works at the same shop, is stealing from the tombs in the Valley of Kings. It was a thrilling, tense, atmospheric book and for days after reading it, it seemed imperative to eat whole raw onions instead of real meals – because that was all poor, scrounging Ranofer found to eat some days. I’m sure I’ll steal glances over a shoulder for Ranofer’s goldsmith’s shop if I ever go to Egypt. His Egypt is my Egypt, I’ve already been there, sort of. All readers of fiction carry within themselves sediments of the places they have traveled to in books, the people they’ve met on the way. Therefore the strange déjà vu when you land in a foreign country and wonder if you’ve been there before.

The Hindu Literary Award

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The shortlist for the Hindu Literary Award, started last year by India's national newspaper The Hindu, was announced today. The Folded Earth is on the shortlist, in some very good company.

Apart from The Folded Earth, the shortlist includes "River of Smoke" by Amitav Ghosh, "The Fakir" (translated from Bengali) by Sunil Gangopadhyay, "Bharatipura" by U.R. Ananthamurthy (translated from Kannada), "Litanies of the Dutch Battery" by N.S. Madhavan (translated from Malayalam), "The Sly Company of People Who Care" by Rahul Bhattacharya, and "The Storyteller of Marrakesh" by Joydeep Roy-Bhattacharya.

The jury received 129 submissions for the award this year. The award will be announced on 30 October in Chennai.

More news on The Folded Earth:

I will read from the book and answer questions at the Kovalam Literary Festival.which has events in Delhi as well this time. The first Folded Earth session is at 1030 AM on Thursday 29 September. The rest follow, in Kerala, from 30 Sept to 2 October.




UNDER THE MASK

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Nobody expected it at the Kovalam Litfest. It felt so relaxed that you chatted with strangers as with friends. And yet here was a bearded, elderly man in the row behind mine raging at the Israeli playwright Savyon Liebrecht. Wagging a finger, ignoring all reprimands, he tried to establish through persistence alone that he knew, if nobody else did, how terrible were the Jewish people because he had lived in Germany for thirty years and they had been awful to him and this proved that they deserved the Holocaust.
The festival organisers managed to put the lid on him — only for the moment as it later turned out — but that moment was occupied by another voice: “Why you are still stuck in the past Madam? Why you don’t think of the future? The Germans have the best brains. They make the best machines. They make the best films. Why you are stuck with the Holocaust?” (In another context, this could have been Modi’s question: “Look how much I have done for Gujarat. Why you are stuck in Godhra?”)
The bookstall at the Kovalam Litfest; courtesy of Noctilucent

It would have been comical if it hadn’t been so nasty. Liebrecht is the author of novels, short stories, plays, and novellas. She has won awards in three countries and has been Israel’s Playwright of the Year. Born in 1948, she is the child of Holocaust survivors and has devoted her entire writerly life to it. She stood on stage now trying to absorb what the audience was flinging at her: a prolific writer at a loss for words.
And Liebrecht was not the only one trying to make sense of the hatred pouring out from an audience that had appeared so benign. Poet, translator and activist Meena Kandaswamy, not even thirty, is already well known as a radical political writer, not afraid to use explicitly sexual language as a shock tactic. She read a series of angry, polemical, passionate poems on womanhood and Dalithood. Then went through an exhausting hour of attacks from the audience.
I listened more and more bewildered by the aggression as people pulled out all sorts of old chestnuts. They informed her that Dalits today no longer suffered; that they actually had it rather good what with reservations and all; that when they got those reserved-quota jobs they never worked, etc., etc. One bitter generalization followed another.
In the questions put to both Liebrecht and Kandaswamy, suffering was weighed in scales. Whose was worse? Were not the Palestinians as oppressed as the Jewish people had been? Wasn’t India’s Partition a Holocaust as well? Some wanted to know why Kandaswamy focused on Dalits. Did not the disabled deserve poetic attention? If Surpanakha could be the subject of a poem, why not Draupadi?
Not everyone in the audience was as perverse, of course. Several people tried reasoning it out. Rebecca Mammen, criminal lawyer at the Delhi High Court, gave examples from her own cases to prove how violence against Dalits was rarely punished by the state. Novelist Binoo John and cricket writer Suresh Menon attempted arguing with those brushing away the Holocaust. Various others tried turning the discussion towards less hostile directions. Nothing worked.
I realized later that the booing sections had sat beaming through Fatima Bhutto telling them all sorts of uncomfortable truths about India. The same listeners who were more or less spitting at a Dalit poet and a Jewish playwright had been fawning over the visiting princess from Pakistan. There wasn’t a single inconvenient question. Did her pedigree and our love of kings and queens create that submissiveness? Or was it a sane response to the eloquence of her appeal for Indo-Pak brotherhood?
Prefacing her reading, Liebrecht spoke in a quiet voice of the silences and absences in her family because of the Holocaust. She spoke of not having cousins or grandparents or other relatives. Of discovering very late in life, from a photograph, that her father had had a different family before the war. The story she read to us was a moving one, of ghastly memories tumbling out from an old man who had been silent thus far about his years in Auschwitz. Nothing in her reading suggested she was looking for a fight. (Kandaswamy — something of a firecracker both in what she writes and the way she reads from it — certainly was, and took an endearing pleasure in the battle.)
Given that much literature is now obviously and overtly political, all writers  — even those who do not write in that vein — expect political rather than literary questions at book events, whether in India or the West. It is the level of acrimony that is strikingly different. There must be verbal versions of rotten eggs and tomatoes at literary festivals in the West, but I haven’t seen comments being worded as personal accusations. I’ve been asked pointed political questions and seen them being put to others. But there was always the underlying acknowledgement that the writer pinned by that spotlight, trapped on that podium, deserved courtesy and attention.
Liebrecht later said she was used to occasional hostility — but had not expected it in Kerala. What image had she, or we, of Kerala? Mammen, John and Menon, all Malayalis, defined Kerala for me. Like most outsiders I knew only of its cultural richness, its natural beauty, its leftwing politics, its stable birth rate, its incredible literacy rates, its enviable healthcare and old age care systems. Landing there from Delhi, where even the Chief Minister reprimands women for driving alone at night, I was delighted to see stout matrons in saris and helmets ferrying their children about on speedy little scooters. I felt unthreatened walking alone on the beach. Everyone I spoke to was welcoming and cordial. My first impressions confirmed my view that Kerala had got it all right. I would not have been surprised by aggression anywhere else in India. I hadn’t expected it in Kerala.
It’s not just Kerala. Most writers assume that they and their readers share a protective sheath of liberal values — but it disintegrates alarmingly during most such occasions in India. We usually associate rightwing aggression with loutish mobs. That’s a mistake. It may be the woman in the tussar sari or the man in a linen suit, sitting next to you in an air-conditioned hall, listening to poetry. Scribbling notes. Sharpening knives. Priming the bomb. Adjusting the mask.
 Published in The Telegraph. Read it here.



The Folded Earth Makes The Man Asian Longlist

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A despatch from the Maclehose Press blog:


The Folded Earth Makes The Man Asian Longlist

Anuradha’s second novel, The Folded Earth, has been included on the longlist for the 2011 Man Asian Literary Prize. Also on the longlist are Haruki Murakami’s novel-in-three-books 1Q84, novels by Jamil Ahmad and Amitav Ghosh and Rahul Bhattacharya’s debut, The Sly Company of People Who Care. Rahul Bhattacharya’s novel was yesterday announced as the winner of the Hindu Literary Prize, the shortlist for which included The Folded Earth.

An Atlas of Impossible Longing, Roy’s own first novel, was one of the very earliest books to be published by MacLehose Press after she met Christopher MacLehose at the London Book Fair. When the Man Asian Longlist was announced on Sunday, he was impressed by the strength of the list: “There are at least three outstanding novelists on it — Anuradha must be as proud as we are.”

The Longlist in Full
JAMIL AHMAD (Pakistan) - The Wandering Falcon
TAHMIMA ANAM (Bangladesh) - The Good Muslim
JAHNAVI BARUA (India) - Rebirth
RAHUL BHATTACHARYA (India) - The Sly Company of People Who Care
MAHMOUD DOWLATABADI (Iran) - The Colonel
AMITAV GHOSH (India) - River of Smoke
HARUKI MURAKAMI (Japan) - 1Q84
ANURADHA ROY (India) - The Folded Earth
KYUNG-SOOK SHIN (South Korea) - Please Look After Mom
TARUN J TEJPAL (India) - The Valley of Masks
YAN LIANKE (China) - Dream of Ding Village
BANANA YOSHIMOTO (Japan) - The Lake

The shortlist will be announced on 10 January 2012

GOING GENTLY SIDEWAYS

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In the INDIAN EXPRESS, 1 January 2012


He didn’t have enough time with his children, Johnny Depp complained in an interview, he was always at work. So why not make fewer movies? At this Depp’s eyes took on an ever so subtle manic gleam. He explained that if he did — if he did slow down — he felt himself starting to go “y’know —  sideways.” The eyes gleamed more, you sensed that there was no telling what Depp would do if he went sideways, perhaps right then, in the studio.
2011 was meant to be my year of liberation. I had finished a second novel, I would no longer need to think about it, it was publication year. Some writers gripe that their book promotions take months, eating into the time for their next book. They have to travel too much; drink too much; sleep too little; do book tours, signings, and suchlike. Sounds hellish. Luckily for me, I was going nowhere. I was just going to sit on my hilltop watching the woodpecker tap the deodar. Doing nothing. Going gently sideways.
“Doing nothing” is more or less what my life consists of, even to people in Ranikhet, who do even less.  I live there much of the year and my version of going sideways is long walks, partly because I like walking, partly because walking untangles my confusions when I’ve driven myself or my novel-in-progress into a dead end.
Almost the only other people out in the wilds are cowherds, who view my wanderings with condescending indulgence. “Bacche-kachhe nahi hain?” asks one, implying I’ve failed as a woman. Another observes that for women who have time to kill it’s good to stroll away the days. As for herself, she has to graze Lalli and her calves although her old legs ache.
If the world thinks I am doing nothing, it isn’t that inaccurate. I feel fraudulent if I ever tick “writer” in the box next to Occupation. Is mine a real Occupation? As real as being a cowherd? To retreat into a place you have invented, to write something nobody is asking you to, nor waiting for — is that work? Lives wouldn’t be lost without the book. The libraries wouldn’t shut. Nobody would know or care if it weren’t written.
I have a sense that it is to convince themselves that they are at work — at important, real work — that novelists devise grandiose versions of masochism:
“On [Jonathan] Franzen's desk sit a pair of earplugs that he wears when he writes, over which he places noise-cancelling headphones that pipe ‘pink noise’ – white noise at lower frequency. His computer has had its card removed, so he cannot be tempted by computer games. The ethernet port has been physically sealed, so he can't connect to the internet. While writing The Corrections, he even wore a blindfold as he touch-typed.” (The Guardian)
And here is Nadeem Aslam:
“Writing absorbs all his concentration, thus he saw not a single human being during seven months writing The Wasted Vigil. The book is dedicated to his brother and sister-in-law, who left food for him whilst he was sleeping. After turning on his mobile phone he received an old text message and only then realized that a new year had begun.” (The Independent)
I can’t afford physical imprisonment of this kind. My spouse and I run a small publishing house – that is, we publish books from our small house. Our days are a muddle of printers, typesetters, authors, couriers. And telemarketers who ask for “Your company’s Human Resource Manager”. Between all of this, and obeying the commands of our dog, we scrape together our human resources to publish books. Some of these are so scholarly that not even the scholars can fathom what’s going on in them.

But writing is a form of incarceration for me as well. I don’t need a curtained, padded cell because my own mind is cell enough.
Comparing weavers to writers in TheRings of Saturn, W.G. Sebald says: “It is difficult to imagine the depths of despair into which those can be driven who, even after the end of the working day, are engrossed in their intricate designs and who are pursued, into their dreams, by the feeling that they have got hold of the wrong thread.”
After some months contemplating the woodpecker, I condemned myself to my cell again. My characters had already moved in: they existed as yet for nobody else but they had taken up residence in my head. They scratched the sides of my skull to wake me at night. And then they had nothing to say. I started the process of weaving the fabric of their lives, kept getting hold of the wrong threads.
I read a stack of learned books, took notes. Opened new folders on my computer. Then I found therapy in Geoff Dyer’s funny, sarcastic literary memoir, Out of Sheer Rage. Because it also grew sideways: from his paralysis with the book on Lawrence that he intended writing. The book isn’t new, it came out in 1997. Yet Dyer had foreseen my strategies: “All over the world people are taking notes as a way of postponing, putting off and standing in for.”
Resolving not to fritter away the entire year, I decided to make some effort to help my publisher sell my book: I took copies along to a hotel near my house. I showed the manager his hotel’s name—it was in the novel, I told him, as were many other Ranikhet landmarks. Look, there’s even a hand-painted map of the town in the book – okay, not accurate, but enough. The tourists were sure to buy it. Would he sell it? To egg him into agreement I reminded him he sold locally-made jams from his hotel, and my book had a whole jam factory in it. Gingerly, the manager picked up one book from my proffered pile. “Shuru mein ek kapi hibahuthai,” he said. Then he took shelter behind his computer.
Anxious as a stockbroker gazing at the NASDAQ, I circled the hotel every day, not daring to enter. National bestseller lists were as nothing, I wanted that one copy to sell. A week later I went into the hotel — casually — as if to buy a bottle of jam. The manager looked compassionate, shook his head. Another week went by. I saw tourists come and tourists go. Did I dare enquire again? I stamped on my pride and went in. In despair, I asked him to return the book – where was it? Was it displayed in the dining room or the corridor? Why not in the lobby?
The manager unlocked a drawer hidden beneath the lobby’s teakwood counter. Extracting the book, he handed it to me with the smile of one who cannot be reproached. “See, I kept it safe,” he said. It was indeed pristine, down to the paper band my spouse had put around the book with a ballpoint scrawl saying “Bestseller! Set in Ranikhet! 25% Discount.”
On my way back from the hotel, unsold book in hand, I encountered Lalli’s keeper. “Out for a stroll again!” she shouted. “Look at my Lalli, happy every day! It’s a good way to pass the time.”
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BOOKS OF THE YEAR LISTS, 2011

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Both An Atlas of Impossible Longing and The Folded Earth figured in year-end book lists, in newspapers as well as blogs.

The Washington Post had An Atlas of Impossible Longing at number two in their Best Books of 2011, saying "In this sprawling epic set in 20th-century India, a single act of pity rattles down generations to break a caste’s rules, test a family’s mettle and throw together two unlikely childhood friends who will negotiate every circuit of human love"; it was also in the books of the year list of The Seattle Times ("In this richly imagined debut novel about three generations of a Bengali family set in early 20th-century India, we come to understand what it means to have a home and family and also to lose them and become fully free") and Huffington Post's Red Carpet Season for Books list.

The Folded Earth was in  The Business Standard's The Year in Books by columnist Nilanjana S. Roy: "One of the quieter and lovelier surprises of 2011 was Anuradha Roy’s The Folded Earth, set in Ranikhet, which updated the “plain tales of the hills” genre for our times." It was also at the top of the list in The Asian Age, which said: "This year we were spoilt for choice with regard to fiction. First-time as well as old and venerable authors gave us spectacular stories. The few that come immediately to mind were Anuradha Roy’s The Folded Earth, Julian Barne’s The Sense of an Ending, Joydeep Roy-Bhattacharya’s The Storyteller of Marrakesh, David Davidar’s Ithaca, Jeet Thayil’s Narcopolis and Jamil Ahmad’s The Wandering Falcon." Eleuthrophobia, an interesting literary website in the UK which I discovered recently, placed it at number 4 in its Books of the Year list and described it as "a book to clutch to your heart through the cold winter. It's a rich and evocative story of rural India's struggle to shake off the remnants of the Raj and embrace a new political and religious future."

THE FOLDED EARTH: PUBLISHING SOON IN THE US

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THE FOLDED EARTH is coming out in April 2012 in the US, published by the Free Press, as An Atlas of Impossible Longing was. If you want an early, free copy, there is a giveaway on Goodreads -- have a look here. The giveaway closes in about 3 weeks. Watch this space for the cover... I still haven't seen it, and can hardly wait.
The British paperback

The Folded Earth has been out in India and the UK for about a year and has had some great reviews -- you can look at excerpts and go to the links here. It was shortlisted for the Hindu Literary Prize and longlisted for the Man Asia Literary Award alongside Haruki Murakami's IQ84 -- I love Murakami's writing so I was delighted to be on a list with him (and almost as pleased that when my book was knocked out in the shortlist, so was his!)


The good news about both An Atlas of Impossible Longing and The Folded Earth is that they will soon be out in Arabic, published by Dar al Adab, a Beirut-based press that publishes Elias Khoury and other excellent writers. Very happy that my books will be on their list. The other translations of the books are listed here.

The Folded Earth also had an outing at the Jaipur Lit Fest, where I read from it. Will post a few pictures soon -- don't have any yet. But for people looking in general for pics from the Jaipur lit fest, there are tons of pictures of each day's activities posted by an agency, Solaris.


And finally, both the UK (Maclehose Press) and Indian (Hachette India) paperback editions of The Folded Earth will be out in April. The British edition will have the gorgeous new cover shown above.



The JAIPUR LIT FEST 2012

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Was a rather different affair this year. Some differing points of view -- vitriolic, explanatory, celebratory -- and accounts of events, here and here and here and here. 

What the media accounts did not care to highlight were the many excellent sessions that did take place despite the problems -- I went to brilliant ones by Jamaica Kincaid, Anna Pavord, Nayanjot Lahiri, Tom Stoppard, Girish Karnad. As always I discovered new writers and came back with their (signed) books. As William Dalrymple's article says, other than the extra security, most visitors perceived nothing out of the ordinary.

"DESTROYED BY TOO MUCH SMARTNESS"

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On Charles Dickens's birthday, his letter about a prospective author's manuscript.

OFFICE OF "HOUSEHOLD WORDS," _Monday, June 1st, 1857._

MY DEAR STONE,

I know that what I am going to say will not be agreeable; but I rely on
the authoress's good sense; and say it, knowing it to be the truth.
These "Notes" are destroyed by too much smartness. It gives the
appearance of perpetual effort, stabs to the heart the nature that is in
them, and wearies by the manner and not by the matter. It is the
commonest fault in the world (as I have constant occasion to observe
here), but it is a very great one. Just as you couldn't bear to have an
épergne or a candlestick on your table, supported by a light figure
always on tiptoe and evidently in an impossible attitude for the
sustainment of its weight, so all readers would be more or less
oppressed and worried by this presentation of everything in one smart
point of view, when they know it must have other, and weightier, and
more solid properties. Airiness and good spirits are always delightful,
and are inseparable from notes of a cheerful trip; but they should
sympathise with many things as well as see them in a lively way. It is
but a word or a touch that expresses this humanity, but without that
little embellishment of good nature there is no such thing as humour. In
this little MS. everything is too much patronised and condescended to,
whereas the slightest touch of feeling for the rustic who is of the
earth earthy, or of sisterhood with the homely servant who has made her
face shine in her desire to please, would make a difference that the
writer can scarcely imagine without trying it. The only relief in the
twenty-one slips is the little bit about the chimes. It _is_ a relief,
simply because it is an indication of some kind of sentiment. You don't
want any sentiment laboriously made out in such a thing. You don't want
any maudlin show of it. But you do want a pervading suggestion that it
is there. It makes all the difference between being playful and being
cruel. Again I must say, above all things--especially to young people
writing: For the love of God don't condescend! Don't assume the attitude
of saying, "See how clever I am, and what fun everybody else is!" Take
any shape but that.

I observe an excellent quality of observation throughout, and think the
boy at the shop, and all about him, particularly good. I have no doubt
whatever that the rest of the journal will be much better if the writer
chooses to make it so. If she considers for a moment within herself, she
will know that she derived pleasure from everything she saw, because she
saw it with innumerable lights and shades upon it, and bound to humanity
by innumerable fine links; she cannot possibly communicate anything of
that pleasure to another by showing it from one little limited point
only, and that point, observe, the one from which it is impossible to
detach the exponent as the patroness of a whole universe of inferior
souls. This is what everybody would mean in objecting to these notes
(supposing them to be published), that they are too smart and too
flippant.

As I understand this matter to be altogether between us three, and as I
think your confidence, and hers, imposes a duty of friendship on me, I
discharge it to the best of my ability. Perhaps I make more of it than
you may have meant or expected; if so, it is because I am interested and
wish to express it. If there had been anything in my objection not
perfectly easy of removal, I might, after all, have hesitated to state
it; but that is not the case. A very little indeed would make all this
gaiety as sound and wholesome and good-natured in the reader's mind as
it is in the writer's.
Affectionately always,
Charles Dickens

THE US EDITION

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I promised the cover of the US edition -- and here it is, absolutely beautiful. It will be published in April. Meanwhile, some advance reviews have begun to come in.  

Kirkus said: "Gentle comedy, bitter tragedy and grief intertwine in an affectionately delineated portrait of an Indian hill community.
While ostensibly offering a leisurely exploration of the town of Ranikhet in the foothills of the Himalayas, Roy (An Atlas of Invisible Longing, 2011) has achieved something larger, a poem to the natural world and its relentless displacement by the developed one. ...Roy pulls politics, society, ecological warning and history into her slow, episodic story, but it’s her love for the creatures, landscapes and eternal beauty of this place that inspire it. Finally events gather speed after an act of petty spite against a neighbor and his pet, culminating in death, a terrible discovery and an act of shattering revenge.
Despite an occasional sense of drift, this understated, finely observed book expresses a haunting vision. A writer to watch."

MS Magazine called it a "carefully observed story of separation, loss, and resourcefulness... an elegant marriage of psychology and nature... reminiscent of the great R. K. Narayan's poignant tales of rural India."

Elsewhere: Bookbag, UK, said "There is a steel hand in the velvet glove of Roy's story-telling...There are three great strengths to this book. Firstly, the contrast between the timeless majesty and beauty of the landscape and the all too brief lives of the often rather less noble human residents who live there. This leads to the second reason that this is such a good read: Roy creates some wonderful, often quite eccentric characters. You can always tell when this is done to perfection when even the smallest bit part characters seem to come to life with a few brief idiosyncracies. The final thing that stands out about this book is that, while at times it's not altogether clear where the plot, such as it is, is heading, the final few pages make sense of the whole thing and may surprise you and will probably make you smile".

And DAWN, Pakistan, said: "The novel examines loss, yearning, seemingly inconsequential actions, culpability, rationale and the frailty of human existence, from a refreshingly simple perspective. As we are
introduced to Maya’s microcosm — Diwan Sahib, Charu, Ama, others — there is familiarity and recognition as all of these people exist in our lives as well. They are our friends, confidants, relatives, acquaintances and help. The dynamic the writer weaves between these all-too-real characters is instantly identifiable and at times frighteningly real."



AT THE FEET OF NANDA DEVI: SOME BOOK NOTES

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The first few pages of a book by Frank Smythe mentions the town where I live: "On June 1st I arrived at Ranikhet from Naini Tal where I had stayed with Sir Harry Haig..." This town, in the Himalayan foothills, is so inconsequential that it doesn't feature on most maps and when you are far away from it you begin to wonder if it does exist. Yet here it was. As a printed word, the place gained solidity and consequence because the year was 1937, and Smythe was about to begin the expedition that would lead to a book whose title changed the name of a Himalayan valley.

ValleyofFlowers_.jpgMy copy of the The Valley of Flowers is an inherited one, annotated in the margins by its previous reader. The notes have little to do with Smythe's poetic, contemplative prose, or his thoughts on solitude, freedom, nature, humankind. "Remember to take napkins for cleaning dishes etc", says a scribble next to a paragraph about the expedition cook wiping dishes on his filthy shirt. Closely underlined is a passage that lists reasons for climbing accidents. Mosquito nets and ration lists are marked up, as are places where swathes of primulas and gentians had been sighted.

The annotations were made by a woman who was half-English, half-Indian, and in the photograph that stood on her husband Amit's shelf she looked like Ingrid Bergman in a sari. A mist of tragedy wreathed this photograph. Soon after their wedding doctors told her she had a savage cancer that would kill her in a matter of months. She and Amit, both advertising people in Calcutta, decided they would spend those last months alone with each other, in Ranikhet. Here she lived another eighteen years and their days included picnics, walking trips into the neighbouring hills, and quantities of gin and cigarettes.

I met Amit long after she died, when I began visiting Ranikhet. Once the visits felt too brief, however long they were, my husband and I found a cottage there to live in. Amit was then about seventy, a spindly, grey-bearded, thatch-haired man in glasses. He had lost interest in walking and sat all day in his veranda. The veranda was fronted by a meadow on which, alongside flamboyant yellow day lilies, grew spinach sometimes, sometimes radish or corn. Amit smoked roll-up cigarettes that looked grey and damp, but they kept him occupied, as did passing children who wanted cricket scores off his radio. He could no longer bring himself to read new books so he reread his old ones. His world began roughly with Evelyn Waugh and came to an end with Somerset Maugham. Eventually, when he thought - or hoped - that he was on the brink of death, he told me, with the air of having found a good home for a lost dog, that I could have his books, as well as the day lilies.

Read the rest of the article HERE.

THE BEAUTIFUL AND THE SINISTER

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Have been looking around the hillside and am struck by the number of sinister plants there are, some of them also beautiful. The other day I spotted a strange phallic object that had snaked out of bare earth. Took photographs, looked it up, and found it is called the Voodoo Lily, apparently a favoured house plant in some parts of the world because the corm flowers minus any soil -- put it on your window sill and there's the flower, in a few days. I wouldn't allow it anywhere near my house though. It's single petal falls in a revolting leathery fold on to the ground and is spotted, like snakeskin. The mile-long stamen looks like a sting. To attract flies, which are its main pollinators, the lily gives off a foul stink, like that of carrion. And after the flower falls off it develops a red corn like seed -- I know of a child in the neighbourhood who almost died because she ate a tiny bit of that cob, attracted by its pretty colour.

After the flower falls off, the plant develops a pretty necklace of leaves. But grazing animals, being wiser than humans in some things, know it's not a salad plant and give it a wide berth.


ON DIGITALIS

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Diwan Sahib said it reminded him of a curious, very old man at the Nawab of Surajgarh’s court, who had been there since the Nawab’s father’s time, and who wore brown clothes and a green pugree and had a face as cavernous as a starving man’s. He walked long hours in the forest and came back with cloth bags full of plants that he disappeared with into his laboratory, which was a quack’s den filled with glass flasks and Bunsen burners and test tubes and vernier callipers, and where, in the instant when the door opened a crack as he slid in, the smells that trickled out were of a kind that existed only in hallucinations and nightmares, so that when he shut the door you wondered if you had imagined them. It was rumoured that he manufactured poisons in that
den, and the rumour was strengthened by the inexplicable decline or death from time to time of people at the court who had fallen foul of the Nawab. The Nawab had claimed that the man made medicine, Diwan Sahib said, but the line between medicines and poisons is finely drawn, and this very foxglove, so poisonous and so beautiful, in the correct quantity, produced digitalis, which was medicine for troubles of the heart. “Not devastated hearts,” he had said laughing, “like yours
or mine, Maya, for that there is no medicine but death, which too the
foxglove can provide.”

From The Folded Earth

NYT and the NEW YORKER on THE FOLDED EARTH

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"Quietly mesmerizing ... It’s the inherent conflict in human attraction — the inescapable fact that all people remain at heart unknown, even to those closest to them — that forms the spine of the novel." 
THE NEW YORK TIMES


“Roy sorts out the love knots with a touch that is both bold and gentle, but the bigger delight of the book is its intimate, comic glimpse into everyday life in a small hill town… Roy brings the mountains alive not only in their floral, incandescent glory but also in their moodiness and nonchalance.” 
THE NEW YORKER

THE DIFFICULTY STARTING

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"How's your young lady on horseback progressing?" Tarrou would ask. And invariably Grand would answer with a wry smile: "Trotting along, trotting along!" One evening Grand announced that he had definitely discarded the adjective "elegant" for his horsewoman. From now on it was replaced by "slim." "That's more concrete," he explained. Soon after, he read out to his two friends the new version of the sentence: " 'One fine morning in May a slim young horsewoman might have been seen riding a handsome sorrel mare along the flowery avenues of the Bois de Boulogne.' 
"Don't you agree with me one sees her better that way? And I've put 'one fine morning in May' because 'in the month of May' tended rather to drag out the trot, if you see what I mean." Next he showed some anxiety about the adjective "handsome." In his opinion it didn't convey enough, and he set to looking for an epithet that would promptly and clearly "photograph" the superb animal he saw with his mind's eye. "Plump" wouldn't do; though concrete enough, it sounded perhaps a little disparaging, also a shade vulgar. "Beautifully groomed" had tempted him for a moment, but it was cumbrous and made the rhythm limp somewhat. Then one evening he announced triumphantly that he had got it: "A black sorrel mare." To his thinking, he explained, "black" conveyed a hint of elegance and opulence.
"It won't do," Rieux said. 
"Why not?"
"Because 'sorrel' doesn't mean a breed of horse; it's a color."
"What color?"
"Well—er—a color that, anyhow, isn't black."
Grand seemed greatly troubled. "Thank you," he said warmly. "How fortunate you're here to help me! But you see how difficult it is."
"How about 'glossy'?" Tarrou suggested.
Grand gazed at him meditatively, then "Yes!" he exclaimed. "That's good." And slowly his lips parted in a smile. Some days later he confessed that the word "flowery" was bothering him considerably. As the only towns he knew were Oran and Montelimar, he sometimes asked his friends to tell him about the avenues of the Bois de Boulogne, what sort of flowers grew in them and how they were disposed. Actually neither Rieux nor Tarrou had ever gathered the impression that those avenues were "flowery," but Grand's conviction on the subject shook their confidence in their memories. He was amazed at their uncertainty. "It's only artists who know how to use their eyes," was his conclusion. But one evening the doctor found him in a state of much excitement. For "flowery" he had substituted "flower-strewn." He was rubbing his hands. "At last one can see them, smell them! Hats off, gentlemen!"
Triumphantly he read out the sentence: "One fine morning in May a slim young horsewoman might have been seen riding a glossy sorrel mare alongthe flower-strewn avenues of the Bois de Boulogne.  "But, spoken aloud, the numerous "s" sounds had a disagreeable effect and Grand stumbled over them, lisping here and there. He sat down, crestfallen; then he asked the doctor if he might go. Some hard thinking lay ahead of him. It was about this time, as was subsequently learned, that he began to display signs of absentmindedness in the office. A serious view was taken of these lapses of attention, as the municipality not only was working at high  pressure with a reduced staff, but was constantly having new duties thrust upon it. His department suffered, and his chief took him severely to task, pointing out that he was paid to do certain work and was failing to do it as it should be done. "I am told that you are acting as a voluntary helper in the sanitary groups. You do this out of-office hours, so it's no concern of mine. But the best way of making yourself useful in a terrible time like this is to do your work well. Otherwise all the rest is useless."
"He's right," Grand said to Rieux.
"Yes, he's right," the doctor agreed.
"But I can't steady my thoughts; it's the end of my phrase that's worrying me, I don't seem able to sort it out."
The plethora of sibilants in the sentence still offended his ear, but he saw no way of amending them without using what were, to his mind, inferior synonyms. And that "flower-strewn" which had rejoiced him when he first lit on it now seemed unsatisfactory. How could one say the flowers were "strewn" when presumably they had been  planted along the avenues, or else grew there naturally?
 From The Plague, by Albert Camus

Literary Topography

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Novelist ANURADHA ROY’s latest book explores the complex relationships between people and place. Samantha Leese catches up with her in Jaipur

ANURADHA ROY SPENDS most of her time in Ranikhet, India, where she and her husband run a small publishing house. The town is a hill station in the Himalayas that, without the renown of the colonial summer capital Shimla, still has the combined feel of Middle Earth and a Fragonard painting in some need of repair, woven through with faded-glory echoes of the British Raj.
At least, that’s how it seems in The Folded Earth, Roy’s second novel, which wa slonglisted for this year’s Man Asian LiteraryPrize. Ever since the British built theirmansions and verandas in the 19th century,she writes, “Ranikhet has been made up of memories and stories: of trees laden with peaches the size of tennis balls, of strawberry patches and watercress sandwiches, of the legendary eccentrics who lived here...”
This lovely, sad story is narrated by Maya, a young Hindu woman disinherited by her father for marrying a Christian. She moves from the Deccan to Ranikhet after her husband dies in a mountaineering accident, and takes a job teaching at a Christian school.

Under the “circumscribed” sky of the hills, Maya collects a new family. One of its most vivid members is Diwan Sahib, a cantankerous aristocrat with a penchant for Bombay Sapphire, who tells stories of the Mountbattens and is writing a biography of Jim Corbett – the Nainital-born tiger hunter-turned- naturalist.
When Diwan Sahib’s proud and mysterious nephew Veer shows up to establish a trekking company in Ranikhet, Maya faces at once the tragedy of her past and the promise of her future. Another character is Charu, an illiterate cowherd girl who falls in love with Kundan Singh, a cook at one of the town’s revived colonial lodges. They begin a poignant correspondence after the boy is forced to move to Delhi.

Roy has a wonderful sense of place, and writes with discipline and grace. Her minor characters are some of the novel’s most memorable and the major ones are layered without being difficult. Everything from the title and her descriptive, undulating prose to the “hand-drawn” map embedded in the book jacket suggests The Folded Earth is as much about the treasure of a geographical space as it is about human love and loss.
Roy’s first novel, The Atlas of Impossible Longing, was released internationally in 2011. It was shortlisted for India’s prestigious Crossword Prize and named one of the most essential books on modern India. Taking a break from the colourful swirl of the Jaipur Literature Festival in January, Roy spoke warmly about wilderness, change and Winnie-the-Pooh.

Where do your stories come from?
I’m a very visual person. And for some reason, both this book and my first book began with a picture. In the case of TheFolded Earth, it began with a photograph someone showed me of an iced lake. This frozen lake is a place where people trek to, and there are still skeletons and skulls from travellers in the 8th century. When these bones were found, they still had gold and jewellery on them, which is all in museums now.
When I saw those slides, something happened and I started to think about it. I wrote one whole big scene and then had to think about where the story was going.
What’s the book about?
I think it’s about loss. It’s about the loss of a wilderness, and a whole way of life, which has become irrelevant in modernised new India. The loss of those values that made it relevant is really sad. I’m not gloomy in real life, but people say my novels are gloomy.
Have you experienced an important loss?
Yes, my father died. It was a very traumatic death, because he had gone in for a bypass surgery that didn’t work. I think that really, fundamentally, changed me.
You know, when he died, my final exams at Calcutta University were some months away. So I thought, I can’t do them. But my tutor said, you are going to do them whether you like it or not because...if you let yourself go now, you are never going to tackle these exams again. So I did them, and I thought I was handling everything really well. It’s only years later that you realise that’s not how it was.
Could we talk more widely about Indian writing in English?
I think it’s a time when Indian writers are celebrating the fact that they don’t need to be published abroad any more. There’s such a thriving market for their books in India. The kind of fame and fortune that came to Indian writers only if they were published abroad – that’s completely turned on its head.
Particularly because the Indian reading public is certainly not interested in literary fiction, it’s the work of these pulp fiction people that captures the popular imagination. And that never travels abroad. So there’s a huge confidence in producing Indian writing in English for Indians.
How does India’s colonial legacy affect its literature?
I’ve never felt that colonialism was bad for literature. It gave us another language and access to so much great writing. I’m influenced by the great British classic writers. I love Dickens, Hardy, Jane Austen and all that. But I don’t think it’s relevant any more. You know, the other day I was reading a very good British novel and I realised that I hadn’t read a book that was written [originally] in English for a very long time.
What compelled you to start writing fiction?
I’ve been writing fiction since I was a child. When I was little, my older brother was going to school and I was not. And I was really grumpy about that. So my mother, to make me feel better, bought me a red hardback exercise book with no lines – it was just blank. She said, this is your book and you do what you want with it.
I still have it, with stories that I wrote when I was four years old. And then there was a period of lots of imitative writing, such as Indian versions of Winnie-the-Pooh. I started publishing short stories in newspapers, and getting paid for them, when I was 14.
Do you have a particular method?
I just need to find isolation and time. When I’m working on a book, I set the alarm and wake up early groaning and grumbling. There’s nothing more I can do, because once those precious three hours from 5am to 8am go, I have to take care of the dog, and the publishing house, and there are people coming in and out. I think writers who say they have [a very special method] might be lying. It’s a kind of self-mythologising.
Are you writing something at the moment?
I write all the time. But right now my work is in the write-and-destruct phase.
What about your press, Permanent Black?
It publishes history and politics and is run by my husband and me. We were both at Oxford University Press before, and we started Permanent Black after we were chucked out of there.

The Folded Earth is published by Free Press, Simon & Schuster in the US, MacLehose Press in Britain, and Hachette in India.


HOUSE ON A MOUNTAIN

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"...some people have the mountains in them while some have the sea. The ocean exerts an inexorable pull over sea-people wherever they are – in a bright-lit, inland city or the dead centre of a desert – and when they feel the tug there is no choice but somehow to reach it and stand at its immense, earth-dissolving edge, straightaway calmed. Hill-people, even if they are born in flatlands, cannot be parted for long from the mountains. Anywhere else is exile. Anywhere else, the ground is too flat, the air too dense, the trees too broad-leaved for beauty. The colour of the light is all wrong, the sounds nothing but noise." The Folded Earth

For three days it had rained as if the sky had turned into a giant shower. It was my third trip to Ranikhet and yet again I was leaving without a glimpse of the high peaks. It didn’t matter. The sound of rain on a tin roof, the dry spells when the hills were honey-coloured in the newly-washed air: who needs more?
Then someone said, “Look”.
“Look higher.”
I looked higher, to where the sun or moon should have been. And there — inexplicably — they were, replacing flat old sky. They were blue and white on a cotton-puff of clouds, as in postcards. But no postcard peaks look like that. These floated. Five times bigger than the hills at their feet, yet ethereal. A rooster crowed just then. It should have been the opening bars of Beethoven’s Fifth.
Leeches clung to us as we ran down a muddy slope through the trees blocking our view. We noticed the blood on our jeans only later. We needed a vantage point and there was such a hurry. The clouds might wipe everything away again.
At the tip of the slope stood a derelict cottage. We found a place to stand against its crumbling walls and stared at the shapes before us, the jagged, massive ice pyramids whose names we still didn’t know. They blazed in the light of the new sun.
We had to stand tip-toe because the place was a soggy mess of plastic bags, warped shoes, dented tins and bottles. The cottage had broken windows blinded with sheets of newspaper browned with age. Inside, the floor was a mound of dank mud. Rotted sacking hung from a ruined false ceiling. Beams of wood sagged from it.
And in one corner, stood a dog. Its eyes shone in its sooty face. Its peaked ears were the colour of copper. Its fringed tail waved slowly side to side, like a banner.
Only a few things in life can be pinned to particular moments. This was one: we knew immediately, my husband and I, that we would live there, in that cottage, on that hill.
The year we began resurrecting the cottage, we were also struggling to establish our own tiny publishing house. Alongside masons and the water board, there were authors and books to be dealt with. Ranikhet had no internet service then, nor cellphones. WiFi was the stuff of fantasy, mainly ours. Through the next year, we would take our laptop to the phone-booth to hook on to our dial-up connection in Delhi. A crowd would stare over our shoulders as we typed, murmuring to each other about the miracle of letters squeezing themselves through a phone line onto a TV screen.
Days passed, weeks. The carpenter absconded because his fruit trees were being ravaged by monkeys. We waited. Then he turned up, smiling all over his face, holding out a bag of wine-red plums exploding with juice. The power failed because a tree had fallen on a wire. “What use is bijli in the daytime when there’s sunlight?” the electricity people asked. We waited. The plumber vanished to his village to tend to his ailing buffalo. When back, he sat and smoked because the taps he was to fit still hadn’t come from Haldwani. How could they? The road was blocked by landslides.
We waited, and I planted lily bulbs and rose cuttings into our patch of landfill. In my mind’s eye it was already a flowery meadow straight from The Sound of Music. An old woman observing me battling the rubbish-clogged earth said, “Everything happens in its own time. Flowers bloom in their own time.” She laughed fit to burst as her goats munched bushes nearby.
There’s a certain bend on the road to Ranikhet where the air changes to champagne. We draw such deep breaths here that if we were balloons, we would inflate to the tips of our toes and fingers. Soon a line of small shops appears, roses tumbling over their roofs. There’s laughter and chatting on the street. Life in the mountains is not easy but good humour is a widely-transmitted virus. People smile a lot and idle as if they have nothing but time.
Busyness does seem an affectation here. Things happen, after all, in their own time. In this season, everyone is excited about the first gourd-sized hill cucumbers at the vegetable shop. In another season the sensation will be the radishes.
There’s nothing more exotic you can buy in the bigger bazaar either, which is about a mile long. Anything you need is available within this mile — or you have to do without it. It makes life straightforward and also convivial. Shops buzz with amiable conversation about the general lack of things, from water in our taps to electricity to supplies of batteries and coffee.
Ranikhet is the base for several trekking companies, American, Norwegian and Indian, that take people to the Pindari glacier area. Other travellers go looking for different kinds of summits: they go on pilgrimages to the many sacred places in the mountains, including Badrinath and Jageswar. Our own travelling here is lazier. We travel for the rhododendron in springtime or the changing colours of autumn. Or we drive to towns like Kausani and Binsar, to look at the snows from a different angle.
It’s been twelve years. Yesterday I was woken at 3 AM by a light on my face. The full moon, neon-bright. I lay awake, irritable, thinking yet again that we needed thicker curtains. Then I drifted back to the time when, driving home, we had to stop to let a leopard cross the road. Its pale fur and pale eyes gleamed in the headlights. It paused and gave us a long look, telling us whose land this really was. Then it loped off into the darkness.
Putting aside thoughts of curtains I shivered at a window, looking at the moon-sharpened shadows outside. Out there in the deep forest were foxes, leopards, deer, living their secret lives. The hoot of an owl echoed in the absolute silence. Huddled in bed, my dog gave a low growl.
Travelling from city to the hills, this silence appears profound. Some friends of mine run from it, restless and bored after a day or two. Others find that the slowness, silence, and vast wilderness changes something inside them for good. No other place, however beautiful or exciting, will ever mean to them what the Himalaya does. These are the people who keep coming back. Some begin to live here, as we have.
I can’t remember when I went back to sleep, but at dawn the thrush was pouring out its melodies as if it had a concert coming up. The tips of the peaks had turned rosy in the new sunlight. The trees were red and pink with springtime flowers. 
And three of my lilies had bloomed, having taken their own time.
(In National Geographic Traveller, July 2012; copyright Anuradha Roy)

Disappearing August

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I realised today that it's the last day of August and I hadn't posted anything all this month, partly because there has been too much design work for our publishing house, Permanent Black. Also, unusually for me, I actually did one reading this month and am getting ready for another next month. The first was at SAP, in Delhi. SAP is a giant international software company and believe it or not, one of the perks it offers its employees is a book club. I've never heard of something like this. Perks to employees are usually fancy luggage and smartphones at the end of each year or anything else that can be clearly and easily quantified. But books?

Anyway, they have this book club, to which they bring authors to speak, read, meet. I was quite intimidated at the thought of a roomful of bright young computer engineers, but they turned out to be sympathetic and attentive, plus sure of what they  demanded of a book (a gripping story, characters they could empathise with, a sense that the book would shut out the world) and full of curiosity about writing and publishing.

The next event will be an interesting one because I am doing it with the translator Arunava Sinha. Arunava has translated (last counted) 14 Bengali books into English, among which is Chowringhee, which was shortlisted for UK's Independent Foreign Fiction Award, a hugely prestigious prize. Arunava and I will talk about our work with each other and with the audience and there will be a brief reading from An Atlas of Impossible Longing in French and then in English. It'll be informal and anecdotal. This event is organised by the French Embassy and the Alliance Francaise and the details are in this card. It is open to all.

The Economist Crossword Prize Shortlist 2012

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Someone rang up yesterday as I was cooking dinner to tell me that The Folded Earth is on the Crossword shortlist. I've a powerful sense of deja vu because An Atlas of Impossible Longing was on the same shortlist in 2009, and Amitav Ghosh was on that shortlist too (with Sea of Poppies), as he is here. That year he shared the prize with Neel Mukherjee's Past Continuous, but what I remember most about going to Bombay for the award ceremony is the rain that lashed the beaches, the high winds that turned umbrellas inside out, and the crisp fried Bombay Duck at Mahesh Food Home.

Here's the complete list for fiction in English:
  • River of Smoke - Amitav Ghosh
  • Narcopolis - Jeet Thayil
  • The Storyteller of Marrakesh - Joydeep Roy Bhattacharya
  • The Folded Earth - Anuradha Roy
  • The Sly Company of People Who Care - Rahul Bhattacharya



I Just Be-s

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Just back from the Ubud Festival for Readers and Writers (which is a nice way to name a literary festival)-- came back to find that my piece on moments of wonderment that steal upon you at times when travelling is just out in the NatGeo Traveller. There were a few such moments in Bali -- here is the piece.
__________________________

It was rush hour for bats, burglars, owls and party animals: about 2 a.m. I was climbing uphill in deep forest, feeling my way over unfamiliar slopes and rocks. Trees took away most of the sky and from somewhere in the distance came the roar of rushing water. It was the dead of night, yet it wasn’t dark. The light was penumbral, as if it was dawn or dusk—for this was a walk through Norwegian woods in the improbable thing that is a Scandinavian summer.

The rushing sound intensified into a roar. It turned out to be a fierce little river crashing over rocks and boulders, throwing up high clouds of spray. A frail, two-foot-wide bridge plunged bravely across the raging water. Dreamlike, we stepped on the swaying bridge blinking against the cold, fresh water misting our faces. Below us were boulders and trees frayed by water. Minutes turned into eternity, with each step land was further away and our link with life—that narrow hanging bridge—appeared more tenuous. When at last we returned to firm land on the other side, the Norwegian novelist who had brought the three of us along for the night-walk passed around a hip flask and a smoky single malt curled down our throats, sweetly warm and rich.

We walked on. The dusk that was also dawn lightened further, the woods thinned and opened out onto an empty road that looped over the shoulder of the hill. The headlights of a waiting car snapped on and it glided towards us. No forbidden substances had changed hands yet everything was happening as if in a trance. As the car drove us back towards the tiny mountain town of Lillehammer, the sun, which had never properly set, shook itself fully awake again, returning us to real life.

I’m not sure what I had expected on my first trip to Norway. Certainly I hadn’t planned a walk in night-time woods, one that would turn into strange magic. In a succinct statement of how she journeyed through life, the old Queen of Tonga,was categorical: “I Just Bes,” she said. In other words, “Just chill”—and let interesting things happen. It’s not a bad motto for travel, life, and much else.

Many years ago, as a student, I was traveling in Italy and a string of missed trains forced me towards Assisi. The streets of the little town were hilly and cobbled, every stone felt storied and beautiful. Since I knew nothing about Assisi except that St. Francis fed the birds there long years ago, I was astonished to find that its main basilica was covered in frescoes by Giotto and Cimabue. I had seen the paintings on grainy postcards at tourist shops elsewhere in Italy, and here they were in life, massive and unbelievably luminous. I went back to the church again and again, cancelling other plans to be able to stay on in Assisi. 

Some years on, in 1997, parts of that church came crashing down in an earthquake, and several of the frescoes were ground to dust. A day or two after the quake, a committee gathered in the church to assess the damage. Even as they were examining the building, an aftershock surged through the town. It killed four of the experts assembled inside the church, and more frescoed walls and domes disintegrated. 

What made me miss train connections and end up in Assisi? It had seemed serendipity then, and after the earthquake it appeared even more a miracle that I had seen the frescoes when the church was still intact. In one of his books on steam trains, Bill Aitken is stranded on a mud flat in a boat, waiting for a bus that refuses to come. “Sitting on that sandy shore as the twilight deepened, a profound air of beatitude settled on both mind and body,” he reflects, “…At such moments, you know exactly what eternity feels like. Had I been in a less contented frame of mind and cursed the lateness of the connecting bus, the moment would have been lost.” 

Naturally, such moments, when infinity appears within reach, don’t time themselves to arrive when you’re atop Everest or standing before one of the world’s listed wonders, trying to feel what you’re meant to. More tourists than can be numbered have said of the Taj Mahal or the Eiffel Tower that when, at the end of long travels and ticket queues and crowds, they were finally standing before the legendary building, all they felt was a stale sense of déjà vu and mild disappointment. 

One morning, after weeks of struggle trying to swim, I realised I was halfway across the waterfor the very first time. I had left off clutching the walls of the pool. I was no longer inhaling water instead of air. I could not pin down what was different, but the struggle was over. My arms, legs, head, lungs were inexplicably doing what they had been supposed to do all along, in sync. I no longer needed the reassurance of land.

Water was in its own way, a different planet and it seemed to me that my profound weightless, soundless ecstasy in moving through a different element altogether had been felt before only by Neil Armstrong on his first moonwalk. And by about a hundred thousand other people who, like me, learnt to swim late in life. 

To seek out such moments people dive with sharks, ski across the North Pole, and raft in white rivers. Or they try to swim. To each of us at these times, extracted from our normal surroundings and put into one where we have no idea what to expect, it is as if our minds are being spun around in a kaleidoscope to show us a world entirely new.

Travellers are often given the sense that they must consume whatever information, impressions, and sensations a place affords, click more photographs than can ever be looked at, make notes, then move on to the next place on the list of things to see. 

Yet, like inspiration or ideas or love, moments of travel magic, as in my Norwegian Wood, have a tendency to steal upon you when you expect them least. When you aren’t trying. That perfection of unhurry cannot be worked towards, it needs you to let go and, like the old Queen said, just be.

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